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Eagle Bay Accommodation - Down-South WA in Detail


sunnyWe tend to think of Western Australia as a state where a drive from anywhere to anywhere else is measured in days, not mere kilometres. Tucked away below Perth in the south-western corner, however, is a part of WA which defies the stereotype.

The Margaret River area, the Southern Forests region and the south coast from Augusta to Albany, is relatively compact. You can see it in a week, but, as always, two is better.

It features beautiful coastal scenery, protected by several National Parks on the shores of the Indian and Southern Oceans, magnificent Karri and Jarrah forests and seriously highbrow eating and drinking in Margaret River wine country.

Heading south from Perth, it’s a three hour drive on the South Western Highway or the old coast road, via Bunbury, to Geographe Bay.
Here, at Dunsborough, you’re at the northern end of a peninsula which stretches for 100 km from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin at its southern tip. Margaret River is halfway between the two.

waveMargaret River is unique because its character is shaped by two very different cultures. At one extreme, it’s a holy grail for Australia’s surfers; at the other, it is also one of the finest wine producing/gourmet areas in the country. The main surfing strip is between Cape Leeuwin and Cape Mentelle, 15 minutes west of Margaret River. The wineries are mostly located between Dunsborough and Margaret River, again in the northern half of the peninsula.

This “Cape to Cape” region is also very popular with weekenders and holidaymakers from Perth. The trick is to base yourself in Eagle Bay, Dunsborough, Yallingup or Margaret River, and take day trips. Distances are short – the main north south route, Caves Road, takes only an hour and a half if you drive it in one go – and as with the wine producing areas the eastern side of the continent, the individual vineyards are clustered together in a few concentrated spots.

Cape Naturaliste is only 5 minutes from Eagle Bay. Drop in at Wise Vineyard, high in the hills above Geographe Bay, for lunch on the open air terrace. Continue on around the coast on the Meelup-Eagle Bay Road to the old whaling station site. On this drive are several tiny, sheltered beaches which are great for a picnic and a swim.
walk trails
Cape Naturaliste itself has a couple of walks from the lighthouse out to the limestone cape, where you’ll probably see the surfers in action at 'The Other Side of the Moon', 'The Docks' and 'The Channels' surfing cuts. (see our Lighthouse and Surfing pages)

Half way between Yallingup and Margaret River (15-20 minutes drive from both) is the largest concentration of vineyards. Try Cullens, renowned for its reds, Brooklyn, where you can have lunch on the verandah at Flutes Restaurant and Vasse Felix, owned by Janet Holmes à Court.

Also worth a visit are the Bootleg Brewery – the Sou’ West Wheat beer is sensational – the Margaret River Chocolate Factory (their chocolate massage oil sounds interesting) and Stellar Ridge Estate, which produces wines and olive oil, the other fruit which thrives in South Western WA’s Mediterranean climate. South of Margaret River, Voyager and Leeuwin Estate are the two best known wineries.(see our Wineries page)

Heading south from Margaret River to Cape Leeuwin, the Caves Road takes you past several limestone cave sites which are open to the public. Mammoth Cave is spectacular and the self guided tour with headphones is good value.(see our caves page)

Hamelin Bay is one of those locals-only secret places, where locals come for long, indolent beachside holidays where the objective is to do as little as possible. Fishing is about as energetic as it gets.

Cape Leeuwin is named after a Dutch ship which was headed for Batavia but ended up here, blown off course by the Roaring Forties in 1622. You can stand right on the point, next to the lighthouse, where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet.

whales
In May and December, Humpback, Southern Right and Blue whales round Cape Leeuwin on their annual migration. Bass and Flinders started their circumnavigation of the continent here in 1801. (see our Whales page)

The Brockman Highway heads east from the Margaret River area to Pemberton, a drive which takes a couple of hours from Cape Leeuwin.
Pemberton is tall timber country. Warren and Beedelup National Parks, both close to town, protect stands of virgin Karri forest, of which only 40,000 hectares remain in WA.

The scale of these trees is difficult to accurately convey with numbers. Let’s just say that a tree which is 85 metres tall is a pretty big tree. Some which survived the axe are over 300 years old.

treesThe Maiden Spur Trail and Heartbreak Trail in Warren National Park, 10 km south of Pemberton, is a short drive on dirt which takes you through some magnificent Karri forest.

Further south, on the way to Walpole via the South Western Highway, is a longer drive (50 km) off the highway through Shannon National Park, where you can see Karri, Jarrah and Marri forests.

Pemberton-Walpole takes about an hour and a half. At Walpole, you’re back on the coast in an area known as the Great Southern.

Much of the country around Walpole is also national park. Twelve kilometres east of Walpole on the South Coast highway is the Valley of the Giants. Here, you can do the Tree Top Walk, 40 metres above the ground on an amazing suspended steel structure – the longest and highest of its type in the world – to see the giant Tingle and Karri trees from a bird’s perspective. The spans are up to 100 metres long, and seem to be floating in space.

If heights make you nervous, a 600 metres boardwalk winds through an adjacent stand of tingle trees. These are not quite as tall as the karri, growing to 60 metres, but their trunks are up to 16 metres in circumference.(see our Forest page - includes virtual tours)

Denmark is half an hour’s drive east, again on the South Coast highway and is fast becoming another food and wine lover’s destination. The southern coast around Denmark is also famous for its fishing and bushwalking on the Bibbulmun Track, which starts in Perth and runs around the coast for 964 kilometres to Albany.

The Scottsdale tourist drive is a terrific half day trip. It runs for 25 kilometres from Denmark to McLeod Road, meets the South Coast highway, then skirts the northern boundary of William Bay National Park on the way back to Denmark. Karri trees, wildflowers, wineries and art galleries are featured along the way.

The final leg of the Great Southern drive is a 60 km run from Denmark to the south coast’s main centre, Albany, a major port located on King George Sound.

kookaburra
Take a short drive out of town to some wild coastal scenery at' The Gap' and 'The Blowholes' in Torndirrup National Park.


Albany’s beautiful harbour is best seen from the top of Mt Clarence, near the main port area. You look over King Georges Sound, and down to Princess Royal Harbour, where the town itself is located.

Atop Mt Clarence is an imposing statue of two light horsemen and their mounts from the First AIF Desert Corps in 1915. It is a replica of a memorial unveiled in Egypt by the then Prime Minister, WM Hughes, in 1932, and destroyed during the Suez Crisis.

Its position high above King Georges Sound is fitting. The harbour was, for many troops, their last sight of Australia as they sailed off across the Indian Ocean to war.

East of Albany, you start heading into the more arid landscapes we think of as being typical WA.

GETTING THERE

Eagle Bay is 260 km south/southwest of Perth. Margaret River is 277 km south of Perth. Albany is 409 km south-east of Perth.
(see our LOCATION page)

INFORMATION

Margaret River Visitors Centre
Bussell Highway,
Margaret River.
Phone: (08) 9757 2911

Pemberton Tourist Centre
Brockman Street,
Pemberton.
Freecall: 1800 671 133art sun

Walpole Visitor Information Centre
South Coast Highway,
Walpole.
Phone: (08) 9840 1111

Denmark Tourist Bureau
Strickland Street,
Denmark. Phone: (08) 9848 2055

Albany Visitor Centre
Proudlove Parade,
Albany.
Phone: 1800 644 088